MURPHY MAIL: THE SEPTEMBER ISSUE

Dear Salons,

Hi, it is that time of the year again, FASHION WEEK! As the Hair Director for Melbourne Spring Fashion Week, this MURPHY.MAIL is dedicated to “How-to get the Doo” from this extravagant 9-day fashion event.

RUNWAY 1

Kevin was inspired by Caravaggio’s interpretation of Judith and the Victorian Gothic revival, of which Melbourne has such a large variety of these buildings. We used a key in the hair to add a touch of the ornate and unexpected. There is also a slight nod to the 40’s in the shape of the hair, but the silhouette is very small and wispy.

HOW TO – Runway 1 KM from KEVIN.MURPHY on Vimeo.

1. PRIME the hair with STAYING.ALIVE to even out the porosity of the hair in order to have an even surface to work on.

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2. PREP the hair with HAIR.RESORT.SPRAY and section into four sections. Use a large curling iron to put a light bend in the hair. Loosely braid each side of the head with a middle part. Then sew that loose braid into a tight style that finishes with a fishtail braid that meets in the middle nape.

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3. FINISH the look with SESSION. SPRAY, SUPER.GOO and SHIMMER.BUG

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*STYLIST TIP: to make the SHIMMER.BUG stand out more, use a makeup brush! Dip the brush into SUPER.GOO first and rub the SHIMMER.BUG into the hair using a wiping motion. 

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RUNWAY 2

The shapes of the 1950’s greasers and the freshness of pulling your hair back when it’s wet in summer inspired Kevin for this look.
The clothing was a mix of toughness and femininity so we wanted the hair to reflect that with a pulled back look that had pieces falling out.

HOW TO – Runway 2 KM from KEVIN.MURPHY on Vimeo.

1. PRIME the hair with SHIMMER.SHINE when the hair was wet.

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2. PREP the hair by layering ANTI.GRAVITY SPRAY from roots to tips and drying it in. Set the hair with a medium sized curling iron using a basic setting pattern. Roll the hair back on the top of the head and roll the sides and under at the back. Leave the ends un-curled to give the hair a water-swept look.

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3. We clipped the hair in the back with CURL.CLIPS and used a SEWING.KIT and threaded through and around the clips. Begin at the base and work your way up the head. Pull the string until the hair bunches up and remove the clips as you pull the string and secure just under the crown.

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4. Finish the look with SUPER.GOO and SHIMMER.SHINE to give the hair a defined, wet and smooth look.

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*STYLIST TIP: Make sure that you always wind back away from the face and clip the sides in flat. Leave those clips in until the final step, to make sure the sides stay put. TEXTURE.MASTER is a great way to secure the sides. Spay on the hair and dry in to secure.

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RUNWAY 3

The inspiration here was the Gypsy look of the Southern European Gypsies in the 1940’s. We did not want there to be too much of a nostalgic look but we wanted to emulate the humble silhouette of a Gypsy woman with a simple shape and the use of braids at the nape area.

HOW TO – Runway 3 KM from KEVIN.MURPHY on Vimeo.

1. PRIME the hair with SHIMMER.SHINE on wet hair to get a nice hydrated surface to work with.

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2. PREP the hair with HAIR.RESORT.SPRAY and BODY.BUILDER. The underneath hair must be pulled away and secured into two low ponytails at the nape. Use a deep waver on the top sections of the hair to wave the hair so the hair was a little in between straight and wavy and a bit mussed up. Secure with PIN.CLIPS as it cools down to set.

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3. Braid the ponytails and roll into a snail like flat roll and secure to the nape and sew.

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4. FINISH the look with SESSION.SPRAY and pull a few wisps out at the front for a wayward look and feel.

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RUNWAY 4

This look was inspired by the emergence of festival dressing. Festival has become a genre and has it roots in the hippie culture.

HOW TO – Runway 4 KM from KEVIN.MURPHY on Vimeo.

1. PRIME the hair with STAYING.ALIVE to create shine and even out the porosity of the hair.

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2. PREP the hair by creating a middle part and loosely braiding the hair and spraying in ANTI.GRAVITY.SPRAY. Dry that into the hair and leave to cool.

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3. Undo the braid and make a low side part. Back brush the roots of the hair using your SMOOTHING.BRUSH and run your fingers over to smooth. Take a generous section of the top layer, gather to one side and secure with an elastic band and flip the hair around to create the roll.

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4. Finish the hair with POWDER.PUFF to create some volume and texture on the top.

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*STYLIST TIP: To give the ends a separated soft feel, lightly spray a fine mist of STAYING.ALIVE. This gives it a “second day” undone look.

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EMERGING DESIGNER SHOW: RMIT

The inspiration was the 90’s hip-hop music and culture with a punk/grunge, home spun attitude. In the 80’s it was called a “flash” where colour was applied to just one section of the hair, normally resulting in a muted section of colour. Our product choices were very limited in the 80’s so hair colour became hit or miss!
To make the look new we used faded mustards, beige and ashy red shades that were muted. Our COLOR.ME Education Director, Kate Reid, created muted and metallic tones by blending golden yellows mixed with ash and soft reds mixed with blue and violets.

HOW TO – Runway EMERGING KM E002 from KEVIN.MURPHY on Vimeo.

1. PRIME the hair with BODY.BUILDER and work with a zigzag-sectioning pattern. Keep the hair flat to the head with a side ponytail and on the opposite side twit the hair along the hairline to create a roll. Add the pieces to the front section of the hair and cut the coloured pieces into side bangs.

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2. PREP the pieces with ANTI.GRAVITY SPRAY and blow out straight with a Denman Brush.

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3. FINISH the look with TEXTURE.MASTER & SESSION.SPRAY.

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*STYLIST TIP: To make the extensions look like they are real, use a taupe eye shadow on the roots of the pieces to give the appearance of a regrowth. Use a short burst of SESSION.SPRAY on the roots and then rub the eye shadow until the product dries.

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For the men’s look:
1. PRIME the hair with STAYING.ALIVE to make the hair even and smooth without giving it a finished look.
2. PREP the hair by using a hairnet to keep the hair flat, forward and in place and dry BODY.BUILDER in. Take 3 sections on one side of the head at the front above the crest line and add in the hairpieces.
3. FINISH the look with TEXTURE.MASTER so it has a flat straight look to it.