CPHFW Behind The Scenes: Holzweiler AW21

As runways explore new digital landscapes, designers are able to push the envelope to new heights… and temperatures.

Copenhagen Fashion Week AW21 took on a digital landscape this season, and with creative displays like Holzweiler, we’re curious if they’ll ever go back. The show, which was originally planned to take place at Kistefos Museum – The Twist (eponymous with the AW21 Collection) opted for a place closer to home due to lockdown restrictions. The location — Lysaker Brygge at Oslo fjord — was an effortlessly stunning backdrop that truly brought the collection to life with cool stillness, crisp light and -25 C° temperatures.

Of the challenge, Hair Director Alexander Woll said of the experience, “The shoot was to be filmed outside at -25 C°! We explored which KEVIN.MURPHY products would perform best under extreme conditions and relied on ANTI.GRAVITY.SPRAY, KILLER.WAVES, STAYING.ALIVE, YOUNG.AGAIN DRY CONDITIONER, and UN.TANGLED as we filmed from sunrise to sunset. We were all stunned by how well the KEVIN.MURPHY products performed — they never froze and hair remained natural, shiny and smooth.”

 

Image: @akam1k3

INSPIRATION FROM THE DESIGNER

Image: @jakobland

2020 left no rock unturned — shaking up every crack in society we saw a relentless pandemic, wildfires, floods, wars, hunger, loneliness and instability alongside powerful movements such as Black Lives Matter. The AW21 Collection, titled Twist, is “a concept based around our reflection on Holzweiler, as a brand, and how to tackle the challenges in the world right now.”

As described by the brand, “The gesture to “twist” something and to turn something on its head, it is a gesture of change and disruption. Through manifesting this gesture as a guiding design principle for this collection we will also find new perspectives on our classic designs. “Twist” is a way of changing the ordinary into the extraordinary, a way of seeing the world in a different way. For the AW21 collection we have focused on honest garments with a classic twist. Oversized and loose minimalistic shapes. Details with a twist or glitches, we looked at fabrics to create new techniques and classic innovation.”

Image:@jakobland

THE HAIR

Image: @jakobland
Image: @akam1k3
There was an understated grunge vibe to the show. To complement this, Alexander Woll and his assistant, SESSION.SALON graduate Ken Ove Holter-Hanssen approached the looks with a combination of techniques they describe as “wild versus natural.” Alexander adds, “It’s all about the contrasts and the correct placement of the different elements to portray the story and the emotions we wanted to tell.” The hair for Alexander naturally evolved into a story about self-discovery and familiar feelings society is all reaching for at the moment — a study of the moment one lets go and is totally free.
Image: @jakobland

GET THE LOOK:

While hair was prepped at Holzweiler HQ, the hair had to stand the real test in -25 C° weather, which is where KEVIN.MURPHY product helped tremendously.

Products Used:

HOW TO – STYLING

  1. Prep hair with ANTI.GRAVITY.SPRAY + KILLER.WAVES. Section in a middle parting to the crown with a straight line from ear to ear.
  2. Set positive/negative waves with medium tong and random sectioning. Release with TEXTURE.COMB and SMOOTHING.BRUSH.
  3. Style the front with STAYING.ALIVE and leave the back natural. Then, finish with YOUNG.AGAIN DRY CONDITIONER.

HOW TO – STITCHING

  1. The front left part of fringe is stitched behind the ear in a sleek wet look.
  2. The top of that section is then pulled out and roughed up to create a bigger contrast from back and front.
  3. Then, the fight front fringe is set in a “wet” look and moved forward towards the face. This is the part of the hair that represents “letting go.”

PRO TIPS

  • ANTI.GRAVITY.SPRAY was used during prep for longevity, natural shine and hold.
  • STAYING.ALIVE helped ‘set’ the hair and survived multiple outfit changes while preventing hair static.
  • YOUNG.AGAIN DRY CONDITIONER to finish, kept hair healthy, shiny and dry.
  • KILLER.WAVES established the wet-look and maintained attractive texture.
  • UN.TANGLED resisted the extreme cold and helped us maintain the wet-look throughout the shoot.

Cover Image: @akam1k3